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German Shepherd Dog

Congenital Predispositions of the German Shepherd GSD: The German Shepherd is a breed of medium to large-sized working dog that originated in Germany. In the English language, the breed's officially recognized name is German Shepherd Dog (*GSD**). The breed was officially known as the* Alsatian in the UK from after the First World War until 1977 when its name was changed back to German Shepherd. As a herding dog, German Shepherds are working dogs developed originally for herding sheep. Since that time, however, because of their strength, intelligence, trainability, and obedience, German Shepherds around the world are often the preferred breed for many types of work, including, disability assistance, search-and-rescue, police and military roles as well as acting. Degenerative Myelopathy (DM): DM is a progressive and fatal degenerative disease of the spinal cord caused by a gene mutation. It is thought to be caused by excessive amounts of Reactive Oxygen Species Molecules (ROS) causing oxidative or free radical injury. Degeneration of the outer layer of tissue of the spinal cord – white matter, in the thoracic section of the spine, over time leads to complete paralysis of all limbs known as tetraplegia. This is a chronic and fatal condition that has no effective treatment. Classic signs of DM are seen at roughly 8 to 9 years of age, but it has been reported in dogs as young as 6 months. It involves hindlimb ataxia (uncoordinated and wobbly), which progresses to hindlimb weakness (paresis) with an inability to stand and then to complete hindlimb paralysis. If allowed to progress, it will travel up the spinal cord and affect the forelimbs, leading to tetraplegia. Even though this is considered a non-painful condition, it can be extremely distressing for the dog, particularly as their mobility decreases. It requires high nursing care and commitment from the owners, as through the progression normal urine and faecal control will be lost. Pressure sores and ulcers are also a risk so attention to their needs is paramount. Despite the lack of effective treatments, physiotherapy in the early stages can help them stay mobile for longer. Owners usually opt for euthanasia before it progresses to tetraplegia. Gene testing is available to identify animals at risk of developing DM or those that are carriers. Hemangiosarcoma: Hemangiosarcoma is an aggressive form of cancer in dogs. It develops from the cells that normally create blood vessels (endothelial cells) so it can be found anywhere in the body. It is commonly found in the spleen, but also the liver, heart, skin, bones and central nervous system. Due to the aggressive behaviour, it can spread regionally and distantly. There are very few signs of the cancer until an acute bleeding event occurs, resulting in collapse, pale mucous membranes, cardiovascular effects and haemoabdomen/pericardial effusion (blood in the abdomen/pericardium). At this point surgery is indicated to control the bleeding, address the associated clinical signs related to blood loss, remove infiltrated masses or organs, and to obtain a definitive diagnosis. Occasionally, this cancer may be detected incidentally on radiographs, ultrasound, or echocardiogram; however, on review of recent history, signs of transient lethargy and weakness are frequently noted. Presentations involving the skin/subcutaneous/intramuscular tissues typically manifest as progressive masses that are appreciated externally. Those affecting the bone exhibit signs of bone pain associated with radiographic bone lesions. In most cases, tissue biopsy is needed to definitively diagnose hemangiosarcoma, as other benign and malignant causes can cause similar abnormalities. Staging tests recommended to define extent of disease include blood work, urinalysis, coagulation profile, thoracic/abdominal imaging, and echocardiogram. Staging for hemangiosarcoma is based on the Tumour, Node, Metastasis (TNM) system as follows: Stage I: No evidence of neoplasia (typically achieved post operatively) or associated with a tumour <5 cm, confined to the primary site with no regional/distant metastasis. Stage II: Tumour <5 cm or greater than or equal to 5 cm in diameter, that is either confined to the primary site, ruptured (haemoabdomen/pericardial effusion), or invading subcutaneous tissue with evidence of regional lymph node involvement, with evidence of distant disease spread. Surgery is the primary treatment to address intra-abdominal masses, right auricular appendage masses, subcutaneous/intramuscular masses, and bone lesions. This is preferably done before the mass or masses rupture and the patient is stable. Unfortunately, with those presentations associated with liver and splenic disease, surgery often has to be done when the patient is in a critical state. Other modes of treatment include radiation therapy, chemotherapy, immunotherapy and metronomic chemotherapy. The prognosis associated with almost all presentations of hemangiosarcoma, with the exception of primary cutaneous hemangiosarcoma, is considered poor.  Prognosis for the most common form – Splenic Hemangiosarcoma, if surgery alone is pursued, irrespective of stage at time of diagnosis, the anticipated median survival time is approximately ~2-4 months. The addition of chemotherapy as adjuvant to surgery when only microscopic disease is present is associated with a more favourable outcome.  Elbow Dysplasia: Dysplasia literally means “abnormality of development”. The elbow joint is complex because it involves the articulation of 3 bones, and if they do not fit together perfectly because of abnormal development, the consequence is an abnormal concentration of force on a specific region of the joint. Elbow dysplasia is a common cause of forelimb lameness in young, large and giant breed dogs. Obesity in puppyhood increases the risks that a gene carrier will develop a clinical problem in their life. Dogs can present with forelimb lameness, stiff with elbow pain in one or both legs, and should be suspected as elbow dysplasia with any of these symptoms when not associated with an acute trauma. Elbow dysplasia can cause Osteoarthritis but is also associated with discrete pathological fractures within the joint. Diagnosis through examination and imaging, whether that be radiographs, CT or MRI. Non-surgical treatments include weight management, physiotherapy, exercise modification and medications to address the accompanying pain such as NSAIDs (anti-inflammatory drugs). There are many different approaches to surgery dependent on the specifics of the individual case, OA or fracture involvement. Surgical treatments for elbow dysplasia aim to treat the current source of pain and to minimise the progression of osteoarthritis. Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV) or Bloat: A common ailment among German Shepherds is bloat, or Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV). In its early stage, the stomach fills with gas, causing a simple gastric dilatation or bloat. Sometimes, the condition progresses no further than a bloat. A GDV is a progression of the bloat into a volvulus, in which the huge, gas-filled stomach twists upon itself so that both the entrance and exit of the stomach become occluded, blocking the escape of gas, liquids and stomach contents. This build-up of gas and liquid causes the stomach to expand like a balloon (dilatation). It's not just the passage of gas and liquid from the stomach that's altered in GDV, it's also the blood flow to and from the stomach, as well as throughout the rest of the body (including to and from the heart), that's severely compromised. The severely bloated stomach can also cause breathing issues and a host of serious metabolic problems — such as acid-base and electrolyte imbalances, blood clotting abnormalities, and widespread inflammation. Patients typically present with non-productive vomiting or dry heaving, they may bring up small amounts of water or large volumes of viscous stringy saliva. Restlessness – anxious and pacing unable to get comfortable. They may salivate excessively, have difficulty breathing or an increased respiratory effort or rate. Rapid Heart rate, pale mucous membranes and even collapse. Left untreated, GDV is fatal. Abdominal distension and discomfort, although a distended abdomen may not always be noticeable due to the dog’s conformation, as in deep chested dogs the area of the abdomen where a distended abdomen resides may be up behind the ribcage. Being long haired or overweight may also disguise a bloated abdomen. Not all GDVs have an obvious bloat! Factors suspected to increase the risk of GDV: Large deep chested breeds, feeding one meal a day, eating rapidly, feeding a dry diet, exercising immediately after a meal. It is also more prevalent in older dogs 7 to 12 years old and males seem to be at a higher risk. Precautionary measures are advised to reduce risks such as: feeding a wet diet, feeding smaller meals more often – at least twice daily, and no exercise for several hours after a meal. Fast eaters may need some modification to the way they’re fed such as calming techniques for food related anxieties or tools such as slow feeders. Abdominal x-rays are the most reliable way to assess stomach position and diagnose bloat. Stabilization of the patient and diagnostics must be performed immediately. Surgical intervention is a necessary step in the treatment of bloat and should be done as soon as the patient is stable enough to undergo anaesthesia and surgery. Surgery requires de-rotation of the stomach facilitated by decompression of the bloat, assessment of surrounding tissues due to loss of blood flow and will also require a Gastropexy which involves the adhesion of the stomach to the right side of the abdominal wall so it cannot shift or twist.

French Bulldog

French Bulldogs were bred to be companion dogs, they are stocky compact dogs with a friendly mild-mannered temperament. Unfortunately, they are genetically predisposed to a number of medical conditions and malformations, some of which include: Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS): BOAS is a combination of upper airway problems seen in dogs that are bred to have short noses and high domed foreheads – Brachycephalic dogs like French Bulldogs. This breeding causes an excess of soft tissues in the upper airways that obstructs airflow and forces the animal to rely on open mouth breathing. The nostrils may be narrow or completely closed. The soft palate (at the back of the mouth) may be overlong and get dragged into the larynx when the dog breathes in. Sometimes the tonsils are very large and inflamed and protrude into the back of the mouth. The larynx may be swollen, and the mucosal lining of the sides may bulge into the airway contributing to airway obstruction (everted laryngeal ventricles). Brachycephalic or short nosed dogs, have noisy breathing, dogs affected with BOAS may have one or all of these structures affected and this means that the dog may snore very loudly when asleep, or even snore when awake and at rest. When they exercise, they pant continuously and have difficulty exercising when the weather is warm. They often pant for a long time after exercise has finished as they cannot easily cool down or meet their oxygen requirements. Some dogs collapse when they exercise or get excited and may become so hypoxic (seen when the tongue turns a blue/purple colour) that they lose consciousness or even die. As dogs have to pant to lose heat, these dogs are also more prone to heat stroke which can also cause loss of consciousness or death. Surgical correction to widen the nostrils and to shorten the soft palate into an anatomically correct position can help increase upper respiratory airflow. Sometimes it is also necessary to remove the tonsils and any everted laryngeal ventricles. Taking into account their heat intolerance and exercising at appropriate times is a necessary precaution. Keeping their weight within a healthy level is very important and other factors like mealtimes and amounts may help with secondary symptoms. Medial Patella Luxation (MPL): The condition is primarily of genetic cause and is the consequence of the selective breeding of dogs with a preferred (bow-legged) conformation. Animals are born with normal knees but begin to develop abnormalities of the bones and muscles of the hind limbs early in life. The commonest direction of inappropriate movement of the patella is to the medial (inside) aspect of the knee joint. When the powerful quadriceps mechanism starts to displace in this direction, it acts as a bowstring and causes the bones of the thigh (femur) and shin (tibia) to deform into a pronounced outwards bow. The groove that normally houses the patella does not develop properly, and the limb deformities become self-perpetuating at this stage. There is a grading system for the luxation of a patella from Grade 1 to 4, which is based on the how mobile the kneecap is relative to the groove at the base of the femur. In immature animals, surgical management may be more appropriate in order to try to prevent the development of severe limb deformities. The cornerstones of non-surgical treatment are body weight management, physiotherapy, exercise modification, and medication (anti-inflammatory painkillers).  Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD) or Slipped Disc: Common throughout short-legged dog breeds, intervertebral disc disease (IVDD) affects the shock-absorbing discs between the vertebrates of the spine. As a dwarf breed, (chondrodystrophic) French bulldogs’ carry a gene that leads to early breakdown of the outer ring of intervertebral discs, their dwarfism causes deformities in the vertebral column as well as stress on the back from gait abnormalities. This means they are vulnerable to age-related degeneration. IVDD can also occur as a result of traumatic or repetitive injury, like a fall, jumping off furniture or climbing up or down stairs. Commonly seen in French Bulldogs is Hansen Type I Intervertebral Disc Herniation – IVHD and are typically acute disc extrusions. They result from a drying out of the nucleus pulposus, making the disc more prone to rupturing. Discs typically herniate in the direction of the spinal cord, usually resulting in compressive and contusive injury to the cord. The two most common locations of the French Bulldog IVDD are the Cervical (neck) and Thoracolumbar (mid-section). If the inner disc part herniates through its shell, it protrudes and compresses the delicate nerve tissue of the spinal cord, that in turn will inflict injury, brings on inflammation, pain, and swelling. Diagnosis is made through presentation and examination with either a CT or MRI. Dependent on location and severity of the herniation, depends where you see weakness or paralysis on presentation. Paralysis may be gradual or sudden. They may be weak with a reluctance to exercise, have difficulty getting up, reluctance to move head up and down or holding head down. Painful back and sensitive to touch. Referral to a Neurologist and likely surgical treatment is required. Cherry Eye: Cherry eye is the term for when the third eyelid (or Nicotinic membrane) prolapses or “pops out”. It is seen as an oval-shaped protrusion originating from the nasal corner, or medial canthus of the eye. The third eyelid is a passive eyelid designed to physically protect the cornea as it acts as a windshield and distributes tears over the eye. Cherry eye can occur in one or both eyes, usually in younger dogs. They vary in size from a very large obvious protrusion, to sometimes smaller and only intermittently visible. Usually they will be seen squinting, have excessive tear production and it may become red, dry and irritated thus causing your dog to scratch or rub at their eyes. This has secondary implications as the scratching may cause a corneal ulcer. They can be painful as well as irritating. Treatment varies depending on the severity of the case. Massage and topical treatments may be advised, also surgical intervention to hold the membrane in place, but if there is significant diminished function from a chronic cherry eye, surgical removal may be required.

Rabbit Care

Pet rabbits are becoming popular in the UK. Behind the deceptively soft and timid appearance of the rabbit is an animal that is wonderfully affectionate, impeccably clean, entertainingly playful, and always intriguing. Still, it must be said that rabbits need specific care and owners should be aware of this and be ready to put the time in. In addition to the above mentioned qualities, they can also be extremely stubborn, destructive, demanding, and temperamental! Vaccinations Currently in the UK there are three diseases that can be vaccinated against. Myxomatosis is seen commonly in wild rabbits and can be transmitted through contact with them or by parasites like fleas and mites transferring from wild to domestic rabbits. Viral haemorrhagic disease or VHD is now present in two strains. VHD1 and VHD 2. Strain 1 seems to be less common now and has been vaccinated against in combination with myxomatosis for some time but VHD2 is newer and only really been around for a few years. Because of this some vets, breeders and owners are still learning about the way it’s transmitted and effects rabbits. The best advice therefore is to vaccinate against all available strains to be safe and protected. Housing Generally rabbits need a lot more space than just a cage or hutch. Its important to be able to offer as much space for them as you can and still be safe.. The placement of the cage in your home is also important. A rabbit cage should not be placed too near a source of heat like a radiator, radiator, or wood burner, nor in a draughty cold spot. Loud noise can stress rabbits, so the cage should not be placed right next to a television or sound system speakers. . Outdoor hutches should be placed out of direct sunlight, in a sheltered position like next to a fence or wall and have insulated and waterproof covers. Provide the biggest hutch and run you can. All that is required is a dry and draught free area for sleeping, a sheltered area to keep food dry; and as much exercise and play area as you can provide. Access to change of scenery is great for enrichment so if this is a portable run or being taken in doors now and then can give them somewhere new to explore It is important that the hutch is secure and safe from predators, ensure fences and gates are secure and latches on the hutch are sturdy. Diet Correctly feeding a rabbit is really important and must be based on a good high-protein, high-fibre pellet and plenty of hay. Pellet mixes with grains and dried fruit or Muesli types are not recommended as a staple for rabbits because it is thought the high sugar and calcium content of these mixes may contribute to digestive and kidney and bladder problems. Good quality Hay should also be provided for the rabbit all the time as this makes up 80% of their overall diet, with 10% pellets and 10% fresh food Rabbit Care and when to see a vet. Rabbits usually need to have their nails trimmed once a month depending upon how much they wear down. Left untrimmed, a rabbit’s nails can grow to be very long and sharp and will be uncomfortable for the rabbit. Ears and eyes should be checked every week If there are any signs of infection or infestation by ear mites, consult your vet. Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and teeth that do not meet perfectly overgrow each other. If the incisor teeth at the front of the mouth overgrow, this is obvious and stops the rabbit eating. The same is true of overgrown molar teeth at the back of the mouth, which often develop sharp edges and spikes to them causing painful mouth ulcers. In such a state, your rabbit will also go off its food, and often saliva dribbles from the mouth in a condition known as 'slobbers'. Teeth should therefore be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly. Rabbits with straight teeth will keep them worn down with everyday gnawing and chewing as long as their diet is rich in grass or hay. Its important to make sure your rabbit is eating and passing good stools regularly. Rabbits are consistent grazers and are very prone to getting intestinal problems like gut stasis. This is where a build up of gas, faeces and food in the intestine can cause pain, bloating and even death. Rabbits shouldn’t go more than 4 hours without eating or passing pelleted stools, if you notice they refuse their usual foods and don’t pass any stools or watery stools then its important to contact your vet immediately Cleanliness The best way to keep a house rabbit healthy is to keep its environment meticulously clean. Remove soiled litter from the boxes every day, give it fresh water and food, sweep out any droppings and spilled food, and clean up any soiled spots in the cage with white vinegar. Most rabbits are possessive about their cages and will prefer you do this when they are not in them. Wait until they are out before starting to clean the cage. Give the cage, litter tray, and dishes a thorough cleaning once a week, and once every month or two clean everything with a mixture of one part bleach to ten parts water. Strong household cleaners are not appropriate because they contain chemicals that can harm your rabbit. Spaying and Neutering Any pet rabbit should be spayed or neutered upon reaching sexual maturity. Veterinary practices usually spay or neuter when the rabbit is six months old. There are many good reasons why you should consider having your rabbit spayed or neutered:

Neutered rabbits live longer than un-neutered rabbits.

Research has shown that more than 80% of un-spayed females develop ovarian or uterine cancers by the age of five years. This risk is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit.

neutered males are likely to live longer as well, as he is more likely to lead a less aggressive, less stressful life.

Neutered rabbits make better companions, they are calmer and less prone to aggressive or destructive behaviour.

Both males and females are easier to litter train once they are neutered and are less likely to regress.

Prevents unwanted litters.

The life expectancy of a rabbit depends on the size of the rabbit. Very small rabbits tend to have shorter lives of 5 to 6 years. Average-sized rabbits; about 6–12 pounds may live 8 to 12 years or more. Very large rabbits; over 14 pounds may have shorter lives, about 6 to 10 years. Caring for your rabbit ensures they are with you longer and are happy healthy, loving pets.

Walking someone else’s dog

Is it ok to walk someone else’s dog? At this time, more than any other, our pets are a source of comfort and companionship but what happens when you cannot walk your dog on your own. If you develop any symptoms of Covid19 we are being asked to Stay At Home. In these circumstances it is ok to ask someone for help. At this point it is worth noting that there have been no confirmed cases of pets passing on the coronavirus to humans. It can be passed from person to person via surfaces such as dogs’ fur, leads or harnesses. Always remember to wash your hands thoroughly for 20 seconds before and after any interaction with your own or someone else’s pets. Our Vet Nurses have come up with a few tips to help keep you safe if you are walking someone else’s dog over the next few weeks: If you are walking a dog from an infected household then ensure you wipe down the dog with a damp disposable cloth or wet wipe before starting your walk, use your own lead that you have brought with you and keep the dog on the lead when outside to reduce contact with other dogs and people. If you are walking a dog from a household with an elderly or vulnerable person then also ensure you wipe the dog down before handing them back. Also:

Practice “social distancing” at all times

Ask the homeowner to open and close doors for you.

If possible, walk the dog close to their own home.

Do not walk dogs from different households together.

Pick up and dispose of waste quickly and safely.

Minimise contact with everything else while out and about, try not to touch the dog, your phone or keys etc.

Wash your lead with soap after the dog has been returned.

Wash your hands as soon as you get home.

We recommend that you keep checking government guidelines as this advice may change.

Facemasks and Dogs

As the world settles into its “new normal” we need to be aware of how this is affecting our pets. Young dogs will have grown up over the past few months seeing humans with facemasks all around them. For puppies and senior dogs this could be more stressful. Dogs use physical cues more than verbal so not being able to see our expression can be disconcerting for them. This could lead to them feeling nervous or even aggressive. The vet nurses on PetGp have come up with some top tips for helping your dog get used to facemasks.

Choose a quiet time when your dog is calm and let them sniff a facemask. Give them a treat or play with a toy straight after so they know this is a positive experience.

Lift the facemask to your face several times then reward your dog again.

Let the mask hang from your ear and reward your dog.

Put the mask on fully, reward your dog and then remove the mask.

Wear the mask to have fun with your dog, play a game or go for a short walk.

Try different styles of mask and ask others in your household to do the same.

Keep talking to your pet and use a bright happy voice when wearing a facemask.

Socialising your puppy from a very young age is the key to reducing fear, anxiety, aggression and stress in them as they mature. If you need any further information on this please do not hesitate to contact one of our Registered Vet Nurses on PetGP.

Cat Care during Covid-19

Everywhere we look just now there is news, some true and some fake, about coronavirus and our pets. There is limited evidence that some animals, including pets, can contract coronavirus. Cases in pet animals are very rare and at present the evidence suggests that coronavirus:

May pass from infected humans to certain pets such as cats and ferrets following close contact.

Does not easily pass between cats or most other pets, but this cannot be ruled out.

As far as all the current scientific evidence can show us, the current pandemic is being sustained through human –to-human contact. This is a developing situation and therefore the sensible approach would be to maintain good hygiene around your cat and continue to love and care for them as you would normally. If no one in the house is self-isolating or showing any symptoms and your cat is healthy then continue with your usual routine. It is fine to stroke and pet your cat and have them on your lap. If your cat normally goes outside, then that is also fine. Routine works well for cats and where possible keep this going to reduce stress. If you or any member of your household has come into contact with an infected person, been diagnosed or has any symptoms of the coronavirus then it would be sensible to be more cautious. Try not to have too much physical contact and if you do then wash your hands before and after any interactions. We would recommend you do not kiss or cough on your cat. If your cat becomes unwell in any way during this outbreak and you think they may need veterinary attention, then the advice is still to contact your own vet. Although they may be operating a reduced a service or be triaging on a case-by case basis there will still be availability in your area if its needed. During this pandemic our pets are more important to us than ever. Cases of pets contracting Covid-19 are extremely rare so with good hygiene and sensible precautions we can all continue as normal.

Winter Tips for Pet Owners

Winter tips for pet owners It’s stormy out there! While we’re wrapping up to keep warm and dry during our daily exercise and dog walks, we need to think about keeping our pets comfortable and healthy too. You may ask, why is this an issue when they already have a coat on? A warm coat of hair or fur (dogs have hair, cats and bunnies have fur) works to protect animals in the wild but may not be enough for our pets. Here’s why:

Pets that spend most of their time with us in our heated homes are used to temperatures that would not necessarily suit their wild cousins, and they aren’t all living in the environment they were designed for anyway.

We like to keep our pets clean and tidy. Bathing our pets when they need it keeps them fragrant– and can promote healthy skin - but it also reduces their coats’ natural waterproofing properties.

Grooming techniques including stripping, cutting, or clipping, regular brushing and combing also help keep the skin and coat healthy. But they can also reduce the effectiveness of the coat to trap warm air and keep our pets warm in winter.

Older pets and those with health conditions that cause coat thinning or muscle wastage may feel the cold more than when they were younger, so you may need to rethink or update their bedding.

Dogs without a double coat (think whippets, greyhounds, and similar breeds) should wear a warm waterproof coat outdoors in winter. Other pets that have been bred to be hairless (like sphynx cats) may also need to wear a coat or jumper indoors.

What else do I need to know? Common winter hazards While some winter hazards are easy to spot, others can be hidden but equally dangerous. Knowing what to look out for could save you a trip to the vets this winter!

Snow and ice may have been treated with rock salt that can dry out paws, causing cracking and wounds. It can also be harmful if your pet licks it off their paws. Feet should be cleaned with warm water, checked, and dried thoroughly after walking; don’t forget to rinse and dry between the toes.

Keeping dogs’ feet clean of mud and other debris also allows you to check for anything that may have got stuck in the pads or between the toes, or for cuts from sharp ice. If you walk your dog in woodland, daily foot cleaning may also help prevent certain seasonal illnesses.

Antifreeze often pools onto the ground where drivers have been topping up their cars or defrosting This can be fatal if it is ingested, even in small amounts. Cats and dogs can both be affected so do not forget to check your feline friends too.

Do not let your pet run or jump onto frozen water in ponds, lakes and rivers. Skidding might be fun, but it can cause injuries, and if the ice breaks your pet could get trapped under the water.

Some health conditions like arthritis can get worse in cold and wet weather. Sitting or lying on cold pavements or paths should be avoided. A supportive cosy bed placed away from draughts will help.

Even free-ranging cats that are used to going outside should have access to a warm sheltered bed around the clock, so they don’t get too cold in the winter months.

Winter swimming

If your dog likes to swim, then you should limit the time they spend in the cold water between October and March (a few minutes only). When they are out of the water you should dry them quickly with a towel and get them out of the wind. (Imagine standing around outside in a wet swimming costume in the winter, brrr!)

If your pet is shivering after swimming you should warm them gently. If they stop shivering and become lethargic then they could be hypothermic (have a dangerously low body temperature) and you should contact your vet immediately.

Small furries

Rabbits and guinea pigs also need extra care at this time of year, whether they live indoors or outdoors. A waterproof covering for the hutch like a tarpaulin over a blanket or duvet can provide extra insulation (with a gap for air circulation).

The homes of healthy rabbits that share a hutch should not be allowed to get below 0^oCand they should have lots of newspaper for insulation and plenty extra bedding to snuggle into for warmth. Guinea pigs can tolerate a slightly lower temperature (down to -5^oC), if they are fit and well, have friends to cosy up to and lots of bedding. It is best not to let the temperatures fluctuate too much though.

If the weather takes a real turn for the worse, you should consider bringing them indoors. If so, they should still have a light and safe space to exercise. Do not keep them in a garage If you also use it for your car though, as the exhaust fumes would be

If it is cold for us, it’s cold for them too! But if you keep an eye out for hazards during and after walks, and check your home-based pets daily, you should be able to keep them safe and warm, whatever weather the winter throws at us. As always, if you’re unsure or would like some advice about your pet’s health, the PetGP Vet Nurse team are on hand 24 hours a day.

Travelling with your pet after Brexit

As of 1^st January 2021, the UK will become a Part 2 Listed Country regarding the European Union and pet travel.

Anyone travelling to, or through, Europe with a pet cat, ferret or dog (including assistance dogs) will no longer be able to use their UK issued Pet Passport.

To travel from 1^st January 2021 pets will need to be issued with an Animal Health Certificate (AHC) that can only be issued by an Official Vet (OV). The AHC must be used within 10 days of issue and is only valid for one single trip. It will be valid for return to the UK within 4 months of issue. Once the pet has entered the EU it will be valid onward travel within the EU for 4 months OR when the rabies vaccine expires.

It will only be valid for the travel of non-commercial dogs, cats and ferrets. A maximum of 5 pets will be allowed to travel with owners unless the purpose of travel is for competitions/shows/sporting events or training. You will need written evidence of registration to prove this.

To qualify for an AHC pets must be microchipped and be vaccinated against rabies a minimum of 21 days before travel. Pets must be 12 weeks old to have a rabies vaccine. If the pet is remaining in the EU for the duration of the stay, they no longer need to have a rabies blood test.

For return to the UK dogs must be given a tapeworm treatment 24 to 120 hours before travel and this must be administered and recorded by a veterinary surgeon.

If you are a UK national living in the EU and plan to travel with a UK issued Pet Passport you should speak to your vet. They will help to ensure you are compliant with the EU Pet Travel Regulations.

What Should I Buy My Pet for Christmas?

5 things to buy your pet this Christmas

We might be celebrating Christmas differently this year, but one thing remains the same – presents! Here are a few that your pets might like to find under the tree…

Of course, we owners know our pets are always the star of the show, but this Christmas why not make sure your dog lights up the room – and the park, pavement, field… with a safe illuminated collar or tag? There are lots of options available to keep your pet safe and make them look magical this Christmas.

Cheers! If you want to try giving your pet a different drink as a treat this Christmas (although your pet may agree with us that plain water is best 😉) then several companies make pet-friendly non-alcoholic pet ‘wine’ or ‘beer’. Check out Pawsecco or Bottom Sniffer for dogs, Snuffle meat-flavoured beer and Pinot Meow catnip wine, available from a selection of retailers.

After a busy morning unwrapping presents when everyone just needs to rest and digest, a boredom-busting activity toy will keep your pet occupied and help them have some quiet, calm time. Look for good quality, safety-tested toys. We like Kong company’s selection of durable chew toys and puzzle feeders available at kongcompany.com and from pet retailers.

Looking for the ultimate customised pet apparel? Why not buy a kit so you can knit your own pet’s jumper – for Christmas and beyond? We found great kits for dogs of all sizes (and sphynx cats) at woolandthegang.com and weareknitters.co.uk

One for when Christmas is over (boo). For pets that are struggling with not having their owners at home all the time, a remote pet camera can help you keep an eye on them and give reassurance for you both. Some will alert you to barking, others allow you to speak to your pet or even toss them a treat. The Furbo dog camera (available from various retailers) even lets you use your Alexa to dispense treats regularly.

We hope you won’t need us this Christmas but if you’re worried about your pet’s health you can rest assured the PetGP Vet Nurses are available 24 hours a day for friendly expert advice.

Written by Gill Holloway RVN

Tips for a pet safe Christmas

Celebrations may not be quite the same this year, but where possible, we will all be trying to catch up with friends and family at this special time.  And while we can still indulge in our favourite traditional food, some of it isn’t so good for our pets. Here are some of the foods that should not be on the menu for pets (at any time of year).  

Entrées and Mains  

Onions, garlic, leeks and chives  are super tasty but they can cause serious blood problems if pets eat even a tiny amount. As well as being the star of a dish, at festive times they can be hiding in soups, sauces, bread, stuffing, accompaniments, pickles, preserves, crackers. Spices can cause an excess of gas in your pets stomach which can be dangerous in large breed dogs!

Like all fatty foods, turkey skin, gravy, ham and other pork products  can be difficult for pets to digest and may even cause a painful condition called pancreatitis in dogs and cats. You should seal that carcass carefully before tossing in a secure (pooch-proof) rubbish bin. Poultry and turkey bones can be sharp and cause vomiting and serious internal damage to your pet if they obstruct or puncture the stomach or guts.  

Accompaniments  

Raisins, sultanas, grapes and currants: did you know that just one of these little tasty fruits can actually kill your pet by causing kidney failure? Mince pies, Christmas Cake and Christmas Pudding are all tempting for your pet! And it’s not just sweet treats that are the culprits (more on those later).  At Christmas time these dried fruits can be lurking in sauces, bread stuffing’s, accompaniments, pickles, preserves.

Lactose intolerant dogs or cats who eat mashed potatoes with milk or butter could end up with vomiting and diarrhoea, or even pancreatitis due to the fat content.  

If you’re whipping up a batch of fresh home baked bread (yum!), don’t let your pet have any uncooked yeasted dough. It can cause a very serious condition called bloat or a twisted stomach.  

Desserts  

Chocolate should be kept for humans only as it’s poisonous to dogs and cats.  Advent calendars, selection boxes, tins of chocolates, chocolate Santa’s, Chocolate tree decorations, the list goes on!!

Some sugar free candy and baked goods contain a sweetener called xylitol which is also toxic.  

Macadamia nuts can make your dog vomit and become weak, give him diarrhoea and could cause pancreatitis too, due to their high fat content. And they’re a choking hazard for smaller breeds.  

Pets that eat wrappers and packaging to get to the tempting food inside, could develop a serious blockage internally. Another common cause of blockages at this time of year is tinsel, or any type of decoration really! Cats and dogs love chasing and chewing these shiny objects so keep them out of harm’s way.

Keep pets away from candles, fireworks, lanterns and any naked flames.

Give them somewhere quiet and secure to rest.

We hope you find our tips helpful. Enjoy a happy and safe celebration!    